Binocular Box

MY VERSION OF THE BINOCULAR BOX

by Glenn Muller

(Apologies for the poor picture quality)

Designed as a self contained unit, here is the box ready for travel.
Exact dimensions: 14 1/2" H x 16" L x 15" W.
Approx. weight with binoculars on board: 22 lbs
Binoculars shown are 10 x 50 Carton Adlerblicks
The mirror is 5" x 10" (for larger binoculars an 8" x 10" mirror is recommended)

The base is slightly wider than the lid which is attached by latches, front and back.
Pin clips secure the latches; once removed the lid can be lifted from the base.

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The legs, which are stored inside, can then be attached to the lid to make a stand.
The stand is turned over, the base goes on top, and the latches re-secured.
These pictures show the latch assembly, and where the binocular case is stored.

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The unit is very stable and the extra base width is meant to provide a handrest as well as a grip rail for minor moves. A thin foam rubber liner covers the binocular platform and brace as well as the shelf below. (A good place to put your glasses.)

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The ocular height allows the viewer to assume a comfortable and stable position.
The binoculars are angled at 55 degrees below horizontal. The mirror swivels.
The view is just over 5 degrees wide, and from horizon to a little ways past zenith.

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Here is a front view and a back view. If you look carefully at the back view, you will notice a nonslip rubber pad for the binocular case to rest on as well as rubber bumpers on each side for added protection. With the case in place, the mirror is prevented from swiveling around during transport.

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. Below are plans for cutting the pieces from a 3/4" thick pine board - 16" x 96".

LETTER	PIECE	DIMENSIONS
A	roof of lid	13 1/2" x 16"
B	base	15" x 16"
C	long side of lid	13" x 16"
D	long side of lid	13" x 16"
E	short side of lid	13" x 12"
F	short side of lid	13" x 12"
G	mirror platform	5 1/4" x 10 1/4"
H	binocular platform	4 3/4" x 10 1/4"
I	binocular platform supports	13" x 4"
J	mirror platform supports	4" x 2 7/8"
K	shelf & bino case brace	4" x 10 1/4"
L	spare bits	10" x 5 3/4" total of both
M - can be cut into 8 pieces	for lid guides and base feet	16" x 1 1/2"

Notes :

Drywall screws will screw in flush to the wood and are available in black. Drill pilot holes for all screws as the wood has a tendancy to split easily. I found a tube of LePages Carpenter's Glue handy for this and other applications.
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Connect the sides of the lid first but do not attach the roof; then you can place it on the base and pencil in the interior diameter - this will help you position the other pieces.
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The front and rear edges of the binocular shelf should not extend outside of the uprights (in fact, leave a margin for rubber padding, if you have any). The top of the uprights can be rounded and sanded for hand comfort.
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The binocular stop is a small piece of wood attached to an "L" bracket and covered with a thin layer of foam rubber.
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A vertical difference of 3 1/2" inches between the top (rear) edge of the binocular platform and its bottom (front) edge will provide a good angle.
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The mirror swivel screws should be approx. 7 1/2" from the back (farthest edge) of the binocular platform uprights. I used #12 3" wood screws; the kind that have no thread at the head.
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The mirror swivel screws should be approx. 3" up from the base.
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Five blobs of silicon adhesive about the size of 3 stacked quarters are enough to secure the mirror. Place 8 2" nails between the blobs so the mirror will not settle to the board. Do not press down to glue the mirror - let gravity do the job (24 hours).
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A first surface mirror will scatch very easily. Clean it as you would a telescopes primary.
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On uneven ground, the legs can be unscrewed slightly to counter wobbles.
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Wooden feet attached to the base should be placed to act as guides when placing it on the lid. Rubber pads glued to the feet will help dampen vibrations to the binoculars during transport.
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Larger binoculars would benefit from an 8" x 10" mirror. You would need to adjust the cutting plan only slightly to accommodate this.
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Accommodations for storing larger binoculars under the mirror should also be considered before final assembly.
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Credits :
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The initial concept for this project came from the Sky Window design patented by Dr. Emmanual M. Carreira - www.tricomachine.com/skywindow/ , and plans by Mike Mack as seen on the Fraser Valley Astronomical Society website - www.fvas.net/bino.html . The first surface mirror was purchased from William (Bill) Bixby - www.fsmirrors.com
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For more information on this project, e-mail me: mullers at primus.ca ( at = @ )